Author Profile

Edward James, University of Edinburgh, is an alumni of Edinburgh College of Art and The Royal College of Art, in London, where he won the BT Award for Outstanding Studies. After graduation, James worked in Italy as a designer for United Colours of Benetton, and then as a freelance designer. Returning to Edinburgh, he established the design label a partnership specialising in fashion and interiors. In addition to his role as Programme Director for Fashion at Edinburgh College of Art, James is a committee member for the British Fashion Council Colleges Council, and from 2014-2019, he was a Trustee of Graduate Fashion Week. James also serves as an external examiner for a number of UK courses, and has worked for a number of institutions includige NCAD Dublin, The London College of Fashion, Arts University Bournemouth, UCA Epsom and Kingtson University. James continues to be an active designer, believing that this is important to his teaching methods on the programme, and his work has been exhibited at significant international venues including; the Scottish National Portrait Gallery (Edinburgh), The International Centre for Lace and Fashion (Calais, France), The Bonnington Gallery (Nottingham), The Shanghai Museum of Textiles and Costume and Venice Design 2019. He also directs The Edinburgh College of Art Diversity Network, uniting experts from academia, industry and charity sectors to discuss and improve fashion design through collaboration and public engagement.

About The Book

Fashion design is an ever-evolving art form that constantly seeks to push the boundaries of creativity, innovation, and expression. Behind the dazzling runways and glamorous fashion shows lies a critical aspect that forms the foundation of every garment, the art of pattern making. Pattern-making is the process of creating templates that guide the construction of garments, translating the designer's vision into tangible forms. This crucial step ensures precision, fit and functionality, playing an integral role in bringing fashion designs to life. Pattern making is the process of creating a blueprint of your garment. A pattern is used as a template to cut out fabric that matches the required specifications to sew a garment. It factors in the type of fabric, the intended fit on the wearer, and any trims that will be used. The pattern is used to make 2D fabric sit properly on a 3D body. Pattern-making is the backbone of fashion design, the architectural blueprint upon which all garments are built. It involves the meticulous translation of a designer's vision from sketches and concepts into threedimensional templates, representing each piece of the garment. Accurate pattern-making is vital to ensure the garment's fit, drape, and movement, as well as its overall aesthetic appeal. The process begins with pattern drafters or designers creating a flat pattern, a twodimensional representation of the garment on paper or a computer. These patterns are then manipulated and transformed into three-dimensional shapes using various methods, allowing designers to visualize how the fabric will interact with the human body. Each pattern must be meticulously crafted to suit different body shapes and sizes, considering factors such as ease, fabric properties and style preferences.

Table of Contents

Preface
1.
INTRODUCTION.........................................................................................1
1.1 Pattern Making
1.2 Methods Of Pattern Making
1.3 Tools For Pattern Making
1.4 Terminology
1.5 Tools For Pattern Making And Sewing Techniques
1.6 Body Measurements
1.7 Measurements
1.8 Size Charts
1.9 Standard Body Measurements
1.10 Pattern Information And Marking
1.11 Grading
2.
DRAPING TECHNIQUE AND DRAPE....................................................44
2.1 Methodology Of Drapery By Draping Technique
2.2 Design Values Of Drapery
2.3 Social Design Values
3.
EVOLUTION OF DRAPERY .....................................................................63
3.1 Representation Of Drape In The Historical Perspective
3.2 Madeleine Vionnet’s Bias Cut
3.3 Drape Usage In Contemporary Fashion
4.
GARMENT DARTS.....................................................................................90
4.1 Dart Definition
4.2 Dart Function
4.3 Basic Block Patterns & Fitting Adjustments
4.4 Hem Lengths & Waistline Levels
4.5 Facings & Interfacings
4.6 Necklines
4.7 Openings & Fasteners
4.8 Pockets
4.9 Garment Pattern Construction
5.
YOKES, FLANGES, PIN TUCKS,
AND PLEAT TUCKS.................................................................................177
5.1 Yokes For Bodice
5.2 Flanges
5.3 Pleat Tucks And Pin Tucks
6.
DART MANIPULATION TECHNIQUES FOR
FLAT PATTERNS......................................................................................201
7.
SLOPERS...................................................................................................215
7.1 Slopers In The Industry
7.2 Practice Problems
7.3 The Back Sloper
8.
HIP LENGTH PATTERNS.......................................................................243
8.1 Drafting A Front Hip-Length Slope
8.2 Drafting A Back Hip-Length Sloper
8.3 Making Front And Back Hip-Length Slopers
8.4 Multiple Dart Tucks
8.5 Variations Of French Lining
9.
SLEEVE PATTERNS.................................................................................255
9.1 Analysis For Need Of Control
9.2 Drafting The Sleeve Sloper
9.3 Personal Sleeve Slopers
9.4 Fitting Sleeve Muslin
9.5 Completing Personal Sloper
9.6 Three Quarter Length Sleeves With Cuffs
9.7 Cowl Sleeve
Bibliography...............................................................................................299
Index...........................................................................................................315