Author Profile

Dr. Emma Coulter is a Senior Lecturer in Fashion Design in the Belfast School of Art (AHSS). A Senior Fellow of Higher Education, Research Practice and an award-winning educator, she is the recipient of a Distinguished Fellow of Innovative Teaching Practice from Ulster University. Her award-winning projects with external partnerships have earned her a Rolls Royse Science Prize, and an Outstanding Award for Innovation with Intertrade Ireland. She has also received a Distinguished Fellow of Business and Enterprise from Ulster University. Her innovative approaches to education have been recognised internationally and her work in addressing gender bias in STEM education through e-textiles earned her the Rolls Royce Science prize. She is an external validator for multiple post-graduate programmes both in the UK and internationally. She has extensive experience in external examining and is currently external examiner of University of Arts, London and Robert Goron University Aberdeen.

About The Book

Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear provides a straightforward introduction to the principles of form pattern cutting for garments to fit the body shape, and flat pattern cutting for casual garments and jersey wear. This book offers a range of good basic blocks, an introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting and examples of their application into garments. It includes a brand new and improved layout, up-to-date skirt and trouser blocks that reflect the changes in body sizing, along with updates to the computer-aided design section and certain blocks, illustrations and diagrams. This is an essential purchase for students and beginners looking to understand pattern cutting and building confidence to develop their own pattern cutting style. Pattern making plays a key role in the aspect of fashion design and garment production, as it serves as the transformative process that turns a simple drawing into a consistent accumulation of garments. The process of creating conventional or manual patterns requires a significant amount of time and a specialized skill set in various areas such as grading, marker planning, and fabric utilization. This book examines the potential of 3D technology and virtual fashion designing software in optimizing the efficiency and cost-effectiveness of pattern production processes. The book is written for beginners, students who are starting practical pattern cutting as part of fashion degree or diploma courses or for students in upper schools who are studying advanced dress and textile subjects. It deals specifically with drafting the block for individual figures. This will be useful for women who make clothes for themselves, in order to create and develop their own individual style, or women who find mass produced clothes an uneasy fit. Some garment patterns, particularly in couture design, are constructed by draping on the dress stand. However, pattern cutting from blocks or adaptation of existing patterns is now widely used by the dress trade because of its accuracy of sizing and the speed with which ranges can be developed. If you're a fashion student, dressmaker or just an experimental crafter with a desire for making your own sewing patterns, this book is for you.

Table of Contents

Preface
1.
INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN MAKING...............................................1
1.1 Introduction
1.2 Types of Pattern Making (Drafting, Draping and Commercial Patterns)
1.3 Methods of Transferring Pattern Markings
1.4 Grain and Its Importance
1.5 Types of Grains
2.
FITTING, PATTERN ALTERATION,
LAYOUT AND GRADING ........................................................................11
2.1 Five Basic Factors Which Determine A Good Garment Fit
2.2 Pattern Alteration
2.3 Pattern Layout - Definition, Purpose
2.4 Definition, Basic Front, Basic Back Basic Sleeve
3.
THE BASIC DARTED BODICE BLOCKS................................................20
3.1 Industrial Sizing Systems
3.2 Standard Body Measurements
3.3 Constructing Blocks
3.4 The Close Fitting Bodice Block
3.5 The Easy Fitting Bodice Block
3.6 Shaping The Blocks
3.7 The Classic Coat Blocks
3.8 The One-Piece Sleeve Block
3.9 The Two-Piece Sleeve Block
Contents
3.10 The Sleeveless Blocks
3.11 Shaping The Waist
3.12 The Dress Blocks
4.
FROM BLOCK TO PATTERN....................................................................52
4.1 Dress Stands and Toiles
4.2 Seam Allowances
4.3 Pattern Instructions
4.4 Fabric Grain
4.5 Lays
5.
BASIC ADAPTATIONS OF THE
BODICE BLOCKS.......................................................................................60
5.1 Openings
5.2 Darts In Seams
5.3 Darts In Fullness
5.4 Classic Blouse Shapes
6.
SLEEVE ADAPTATIONS............................................................................75
6.1 Adapting The Bodice and Sleeve
6.2 The Shaped Kimono Blocks
6.3 Cuffs
7.
CONSTRUCTING COLLARS.................................................................104
7.1 Collars – General Principles
7.2 Flat Collars
7.3 Standing Collars
7.4 Collars Cut In One With The Garment
7.5 Collars With Revers
8.
THE BASIC FITTED SKIRT
BLOCK AND ADAPTATIONS.................................................................118
8.1 The Tailored Skirt Block
8.2 Skirt Patterns – Examples
9.
FITTED TROUSER BLOCKS AND ADAPTATIONS............................148
9.1 The Classic Tailored Trouser Block
9.2 The Very Close Fitting Trouser/Jeans Block
10.
COMPLEX ADAPTATIONS OF THE
BODICE BLOCKS: DRESSES, JACKETS, COATS.................................162
10.1 Lingerie and Form Fitting Dresses
10.2 Dresses and ‘Dressmaker’ Jackets
10.3 Jackets and Coats
11.
EASY FITTING GARMENTS (WOVEN FABRICS)..............................194
11.1 Easy Fitting Trouser and Skirt Shapes
11.2 The Simple Trouser Block
11.3 The Simple and Very Simple Skirt Blocks
11.4 Easy Fitting Body Shapes
11.5 The Basic ‘Flat’ Overgarment Blocks
12.
BASIC AND EASY FITTING GARMENTS
(JERSEY AND KNITTED FABRICS).......................................................219
12.1 Basic and Easy Fitting Blocks For Jersey Wear
12.2 Hoods
12.3 Knitwear Blocks
13.
CLOSE FITTING GARMENTS
(STRETCH AND JERSEY FABRICS)......................................................237
13.1 Close Fitting Body Blocks
13.2 Bodyshapers
13.3 Swimwear – Basic Shape
14.
BASIC GRADING TECHNIQUES...........................................................250
14.1 Grading Patterns
14.2 Grading One Size Up – Form Cutting (4 Cm Intervals) – 1
14.3 Grading One Size Up – Form Cutting (4 Cm Intervals) – 2
14.4 Grading One Size Up – Form Cutting (4 Cm Intervals) – 3
14.5 Grading One Size Up – Flat Cutting (6 Cm Intervals) – 1
15.
COMPUTER GENERATED DESIGN AND
PATTERN MAKING..................................................................................258
15.1 Connectivity and Marketing
15.2 Design Creation and Illustration
15.3 Production Data Management (Pdm)
15.4 Pattern Design and Modifi Cation – 1
15.5 Pattern Design and Modification – 2
15.6 Garment Sampling – 3d Software Programs
15.7 Garment Sampling – Textile Print
15.8 Design Innovation – Pattern Shapes and Print
15.9 Sizing and Made-To-Measure
15.10 Pattern Grading – 1
15.11 Pattern Grading – 2
15.12 Pattern Grading – 3
15.13 Pattern Grading – 4
15.14 Production Lay Planning and Marker Making
15.15 Plotting and Cutting
15.16 Product Lifecycle Management (PLM)
Bibliography...............................................................................................286
Index...........................................................................................................294