Author Profile

Bryan Carl is a skilled fashion designer and educator, holding a junior certificate in Fashion Design from the School of Fashion Design (2005), a Bachelor's of Fine Arts in Fashion Design from the Massachusetts College of Art and Design (2015), and a Master of Fine Arts in Fashion from Savannah College of Art and Design (2019). With expertise in couture garment construction and pattern making developed during his tenure at Daniel Faucher Couture (2005-2016), Bryan now shares his knowledge as a Professor at Lasell University and a Visiting Lecturer at both the Massachusetts College of Art and Design and the School of Fashion Design. His teaching focuses on advanced clothing construction, pattern drafting, and design theory. He is dedicated to making fashion design more accessible through clear, comprehensive technical instructions and step by step instructional videos.

About The Book

It introduces you to the world of pattern cutting, draping on the mannequin and shows you some techniques for breathing life into a flat design drawing in order to achieve a three dimensional garment. Basic sewing techniques are introduced, and you are shown how to use darts, sleeves, collars, pockets and the cut of the fabric to add variation to your designs. The breadth of the subject is illustrated with a history of garment shape and construction techniques in haute couture, tailoring crafts and an introduction to supporting and structuring materials. Each chapter also includes views of leading practitioners and tasks to help you understand these techniques. The book concludes with finishing techniques and a selection of resources for those wishing to delve deeper into the world of construction for fashion. Construction is the foundation of fashion design; it takes passion and great skill to turn a two dimensional drawing into a successful garment. Construction for Fashion Design guides readers through the process, teaching the theory, practical skills and techniques that they need to succeed. It leads readers through the essential stages of creating a garment, from pattern cutting and draping on the mannequin to sewing techniques and haberdashery. This book features insightful case studies with leading creative practitioners at the cutting edge of the fashion industry today, complete with detailed, step-by-step exercises that enable readers to contextualize their knowledge and put it into practise for the creation of their own successful projects. Garment construction is a technical accomplishment that requires the knowledge and skills of basic sewing techniques that includes application of stitches, seams, darts, gathers, pleats and edge finishing, etc. With its inspirational photography and easy-to-follow diagrams, Construction for Fashion Design offers a clear introduction to the fundamental skills, knowledge and historical background needed for successful garment construction. We hope it will awaken your interest and inspire you to create the perfect silhouette and a beautiful, final piece.

Table of Contents

Preface
1.
INTRODUCTION.........................................................................................1
1.1 Pattern Making
1.2 History Of Pattern Making
1.3 Pattern Cutting Tools And Equipment
1.4 Silhouette
1.5 Body & Its Measurements
1.6 Pattern Making Methods
1.7 Pattern Grading
2.
FASHION PRODUCERS............................................................................37
2.1 Introduction
2.2 The Couturier
2.3 Haute Couture
2.4 Prêt-À-Porte
2.5 Fashion Direction
2.6 Fashion Editors
3.
COMPONENTS OF A GARMENT...........................................................49
3.1 Introduction
3.2 Top Front And Top Back
4.
FABRIC CUTTING.....................................................................................64
4.1 Grainline
4.2 Importance Of Grain In Cutting And Construction
4.3 Checking And Straightening The Fabric Grain
Contents
5.
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION.................................................................88
5.1 Tools For The Technique
6.
SEAMS AND STITCHES..........................................................................100
6.1 Introduction
6.2 Stitches And Type Of Stitches
6.3 Seam
6.4 Finishes
6.5 Position
6.6 Notching Or Clipping A Curved Seam
7.
FULLNESS.................................................................................................121
7.1 Introduction
7.2 Tucks
7.3 Pleats
7.4 Gathers
7.5 Shirring Or Gauging
7.6 Frills Or Ruffles
8.
PLACKETS AND NECKLINES................................................................131
9.
ASSEMBLY SYSTEM ...............................................................................146
9.1 Introduction
9.2 Individual Or Makethrough System
9.3 Unit Production System
9.4 Modular System
9.5 Combination Of Production System
9.6 Characteristics Of Well Finished Garments
9.7 Major And Minor Factors Affecting Good Fit
9.8 Assembly Of Garment Process
9.9 Importance Of Fit On Garments
9.10 Preparation Of Garment For Fitting
9.11 Method Of Re-Solving Fitting Problems
10.
DESIGN AND CONSTRUCT GARMENT.............................................167
10.1 Design And Construct Garment For Boy
10.2 Design And Construct Garment For Girl
10.3 Design And Construct Garment For Men
11.
APPAREL MANUFACTURING...............................................................189
11.1 Introduction To Apparel Manufacturing
11.2 Cutting
11.3 Preparation For Sewing
12.
PATTERN MAKING..................................................................................203
12.1 Flat Pattern Method
12.2 Comparison Of Design Methods
12.3 Basic Pattern
12.4 Understanding Dart
12.5 Combining Darts: Pivot Method
12.6 Seam Line
12.7 Flat Collar
12.8 Basic Sleeve
12.9 Gored Skrits
12.10 The Dropped Shoulders
12.11 Methods Of Pattern Making
12.12 Draping
12.13 Draping Of The Basic Bodice Back
13.
ADVANCED GARMENT CONSTRUCTION........................................229
13.1 Introduction
13.2 Taking Of Body Measurements
13.3 The Drafting And Placing Of The Pattern
13.4 Darts
13.5 Pleats
13.6 Tucks
13.7 Seams
13.8 Necklines
13.9 Plackets
13.10 Skirts
13.11 Fasteners
14.
FASHION SHOW GARMENTS..............................................................275
14.1 Introduction
14.2 Fashion Portfolio
14.3 Garment Construction Pattern Details
Bibliography...............................................................................................288
Index...........................................................................................................301